New site!

Moving my travel blog over to a new site that my aunt introduced me to.  It looks less cluttered and is easier for viewing different trips.  I hope you enjoy!

http://blog.travelpod.com/members/christinewesten

And the trip ends as it began, with rain

I would like to point out the advantages of staying in a fancy inn as opposed to a chain hotel.  One, the bed is super comfortable and the pillows nice and plentiful.  Two, very nice toiletries, like bath salts and face wipes.  And finally, a more delicious breakfast than you would get at a Holiday Inn.  The Portsmouth Harbor Inn serves at 2 course breakfast at 8:30.  Breakfast is served at beautiful wooden dining table where all the guests can eat together.  There was only one couple staying at the inn besides me so it was a quiet breakfast.  The first course was the fruit course and it consisted of a honey baked or poached (I can't remember) plum topped with mascarpone cheese and pistachios.  The second course was a bourbon-caramel croissant bread pudding with bacon.  Now fancy breakfast is not my thing and I don't really like bread pudding, but this was delicious!  I was pretty sure I would not need any lunch.

I had to head out on my way back to Boston for my flight later that day.  My plan was to take the coastal highway and see some of the sights in Salem.  Well, I got turned around a few times because of signs and Salem was very busy and I couldn't park so I just continued on to the airport and arrived several hours early.  That was ok because there was a lot of traffic and it was nice to not be rushed.

The flight back was much smoother than the flight going.  After a while, the pilot came on and said "In case you hadn't noticed, we are turning around due to a storm in Chicago."  We turned around a few times before being given the ok to keep going.  The landing was very smooth, despite whatever storm was in the area.  And then we sat and sat.  Lightening had caused all the gates to close because it was unsafe for the ground crew to be out and there was a plane at our gate that couldn't leave.  We had to wait for the lightening to let up, the gates to reopen and planes to start moving.  I think we arrived at the gate a little over an hour late.  I wasn't complaining because planes in front of us had been diverted to Milwaukee so at least we were able to land at the right airport!  One advantage of Jet Blue is the TV service and having something to do while sitting and waiting.  I also was able to get another bag of chips since it was now way past dinner and Jet Blue has free snacks.  I don't know if other airlines would have extra food or even make it available. 

So the drive home was stormy as was the drive to Maine.  But in between was a wonderful vacation filled with great scenery and mostly great weather.  I am ready for my next trip!

Pictures from my trip

Taking the slow route south

Today my goal was to see some nice coastal scenery on my way from Bar Harbor to Kittery.  Instead of taking the interstate, I took Hwy 1.  This route passes through small towns such as Stockton Springs, Belfast, Camden, and Bath before hooking up with I-295 until Portland.  The first half of the route was nice.  You really don't see the ocean for most of it unless you turn off onto some of the smaller highways.  But there are nice colonial homes and the outer edges of these towns.  After Portland, you then pass through places such as Scarborough, Biddeford, the Kennebunks, Ogunquit and York.  All very busy places in the summer and slightly slower paced now.  No, I did not spot any George Bush's when driving through Kennebunkport and I'm sure their home is not on the main drag!  I made one stop in York to visit the Nubble Lighthouse.  This is quite a scenic spot and again is probably hopping in the summer.  There was ample parking today and the sun was out and the water was nice and blue.  The light is on a small island that seems to be accessible by a tidal sandbar.  I am not sure if there is a resident light keeper or not but there is no public access to the island.  I wasn't able to find any other lighthouses on my drive and was glad to signs were there to point me to this one.  The lack of signs was the one thing I noticed on my drive today.  Either I missed them, they were too small, they were right at the turn or there weren't any.  I know there have to be other lights along the coast, but I had to settle for Nubble. 

My final destination today is the Portsmouth Harbor Inn & Spa in Kittery, Portsmouth Harbor Inn.  The room cost me almost as much for one night as I paid for all 5 nights in Bar Harbor but all the hotels in the area were quite pricey and I decided it was ok to splurge.  My room is on the 3rd floor of the inn and has a lovely view from the skylight of Portsmouth.  You get a comfy robe (I am sitting with it on as I write this), fancy soaps and bath salts, fluffy towels and a comfy bed.  Breakfast looks like it will be served at a communal table and the inn lady said something about caramel croissant bread pudding.  Usually not my thing, but I will try it out!  I guess if you are going to splurge, you might as well get your money's worth.

I walked to New Hampshire to get ice cream for dinner.  It's right across the river so not a long walk to enter another state.  On my way back, the lift bridge went up for a small cruise ship.  It seems like there are many restaurants in Portsmouth and also quite a few in Kittery.  Kittery is the oldest town in Maine and seems to be a very nice place.  In my opinion, Maine is a very beautiful and welcoming state, if you can get past the lack of informational signs.  While I love the coast, I would like to return and visit some of inland areas where there are better chances to view wildlife and have a slower paced vacation. 

Lighthouses, sand bars and sunsets

Today started out as another cold and drizzly morning.  I did not have any real plans and decided to head to the southwest portion of Acadia and the Bass Harbor Heat Lighthouse.  This lighthouse is owned by the Coast Guard and has a family living at it.  This means you have to stick to the path and observe all the signs about private property.  The light probably isn’t something you would need to go out of your way to see, but there are other walking trails in this portion of the park.  I started on the Ship Harbor walk, but the sign a little ways in said “Now entering the back country” and had no indication of how long the trail was.  Being by myself, I turned around as I was not prepared for back country hiking!  You do drive across a natural seawall if you enter off route 102A and it is a very pretty area and probably a nice place to watch the sunrise. 

I went back to the visitor center parking, took the bus to Jordan Pond, did some shopping and then headed into Bar Harbor.  By then it was a little sunny and not too cold for walking around.  I had lunch at a place called Testa’s.  The people at the table across from me all ordered the lobster and it was fun to watch them attempt to eat it.  I had the fish sandwich and it was ok.  After lunch, I decided to walk across the sandbar to Bar Island.  The safe times of the day were from 12:30 – 4:30.  If you don’t come back by 4:30 then I guess you are stuck there until the next low tide which is probably the next day!  There are lots of small puddles of water on the sandbar, but mostly empty shells and snails.  I was looking for something exciting like a starfish or sea urchin or small whale, but nothing.  I think a more rocky shore area would be better for that.  The sandbar itself is quite wide and you end up with a lot of area to yourself.  The guy at the information booth said there were some hiking trails on the island, but I did not make it all the way there to check them out.  I wanted to walk on the shore path while it was still nice out.  This is a one mile gravel path that begins just off the pier by a restaurant called the Reading Room.  There are several large houses along the path, which are mostly hidden with fences and shrubs. 

At this point, the wind picked up considerably and the temperature dropped.  I decided it was time to head back to the Village Green to catch a bus back to the Visitor Center and my warm car!  I checked in with the helpful staff at the information desk about the best place to view the sunset.  The lady recommended the lookout just before the summit of Cadillac Mountain.  We both hoped it would clear up!

I made a brief stop at the hotel and picked up a small pizza and made my way to the overlook.  Sunset was scheduled for 6:41 and I arrived at 6.  There weren’t many cars in the parking lot and most of those cars still had their occupants inside.  I found out why when I stepped out of the car and into the biting wind.  According to my car, the outside temperature was 52, but it felt a lot colder!  I sat in the car until about 6:20 when I headed out to find a good spot on the rocks.  There were a lot of people with their fancy tripods and filters and also people there with just their cell phones.  Everyone was snapping away as the sun slowly sank towards the horizon.  It moved very slowly until the last few seconds when it quickly sank out of sight.  I was hoping for a more vivid color display but what I saw was nothing to sneeze at.  It took a bit to warm up after and then I joined all the others on the descent down the mountain.  Cadillac is also the place to be in the morning when the sunrises, but I am not going to do that tomorrow.  Temps overnight are supposed to get down into the mid-30s and sunrise will be a lot colder than sunset!

As I get ready to leave Acadia, I would like to point out how clean the park is, how efficient the Island Explorer shuttle service is and how friendly everyone is.  Signs in the park were very clear and pull offs were plentiful.  I highly recommend utilizing the shuttle service and visiting opposite the busy months of July and August.  I also recommend taking the time to slow down and enjoy all the beautiful hiking trails and amazing scenery that makes up Acadia National Park!

Acadia in the sun

Finally a sunny day!  The perfect day to do another drive into Acadia and see what it looks like when it’s not covered in fog and drizzle.  I got a relatively early start (a little after 8) and it turned out to be a good idea as the day went on.  I thought a drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain would be the best way to begin and would get me up there before the majority of the visitors.  Cadillac Mountain, at 1,530 feet, is the tallest mountain on the Atlantic coast north of Brazil.  I find myself doing more and more of these steep drives as I travel.  Mostly it’s because I am by myself and there is no other way to get up there.  Either do it yourself or don’t do it at all and miss out on some amazing views!  Luckily, this road is well paved and has few very sharp curves to it.  There are many places to pull over and enjoy the sweeping vistas of inland and costal Maine.  But the summit is really the high point.  There is ample parking and it was best to get there early because tour buses begin to arrive and then you have all those annoying older folks who just mosey along and don’t seem to care if they get in your way!  I enjoy the fact that older people, or any people for that matter, like to travel but bus loads of them just drive me nuts.  Anyway, there is a very nice paved walkway around the summit area that is not too strenuous.  Signs point out what you are looking at and one also pointed out that about 70% of the air pollution in Maine comes from points farther south along the coast, not from Maine itself.  Something to keep in mind!  There are several hikes leading out from the summit and you really can walk anywhere as long as you keep to the rocks.  Acadia is very much a Leave No Trace Behind park.  Footsteps on fragile plants can harm a whole ecosystem and it is important to watch your step.  I should also point out the temperature was a chilly 55 degrees and a sweatshirt was needed!

The Park Loop in the sun is a very scenic route.  Again, I recommend starting your drive early if you aren’t using the shuttles.  The parking at Sand Beach fills up quickly and cars begin to line the right side of the road.  Sand Beach is the only sandy swimming beach in the park, and maybe on the island.  There are stairs down to the beach and that appears to be the only way to get there.  I saved the beach for later and took the Ocean Path.  This walk goes from the beach to the Otter Cliffs and is 1.5 miles.  Most of the path is fairly even but there are some portions where you do a little climbing.  Thunder Hole is .7 miles in on the walk.  There is a small gift shop there as well as bathrooms and a bus stop.  Thunder Hole wasn’t as loud as it had been on Friday, but it was still a good spot to stop and take some pictures.  The Otter Cliffs are also quite picturesque.  There was one rock climber heading down when I was there so you could do that if you like steep cliffs! 

I was pretty warm by the end of the walk and decided to get on the bus instead of walking back.  Since the Park Loop is only one way at this area, the bus trip is probably longer than walking back, but its nice to sit and let someone else do the driving.  By the time we got back to the beach, the lot was full and the road was also filling up.  I stopped to change into my sandals and walked down to put my feet in the water.  The ocean temperature is probably in the 50s and I did not see anyone actually swimming in it.  Most people put their feet in, but one little girl was so excited while running away from the waves that she fell down and got all wet!  I was glad that did not happen to me as the water was way too cold!

I tried to park at Jordan Pond to have lunch, but both lots were full so I headed back to the Visitor Center lot to try and catch a bus.  Luckily I arrived right before the bus did and was back at Jordan Pond in a short amount of time.  The wait to sit outside was longer than I wanted so I waited for an inside table.  Afternoon Tea at Jordan Pond is made delightful by the mountains that surround the pond.  I am not sure I actually understand the fuss over the popovers.  I prefer a nice biscuit but they aren’t famous for biscuits.  The first popover I had today was a little burnt but the second one was better.  They are best eaten quickly before they cool too much and become hard.   They are served with butter and strawberry preserves.  I also had the house blend tea and it was pretty good!  It is nice to sit and relax after a morning of walking. 

Caught the shuttle back, then back to the motel, shuttle into Bar Harbor for some shopping and then back to grab dinner at the lobster pound across the street.  I have to ask someone why all these places are called lobster pounds.  Anyway, I had a cup of lobster bisque and a piece of blueberry pie.  The bisque was delicious!  There were quite a few chunks of lobster meat and it was a cheap $5 which is better than paying $25+ for a lobster dinner.  I think I have had enough lobster now!

Oh Canada!

If you are in Maine, only 2 hours from the Canadian border, have a day to fill and want to see some beautiful scenery then I suggest visiting Roosevelt Campobello International Park in New Brunswick as I did today. 

The weather forecast was for a cloudy day, which I thought would be perfect for a drive.  Getting to Campobello from Bar Harbor is easy.  Head back up the 3 to Ellsworth, North on Hwy 1 to Hwy 189, East on Hwy 189 to Lubec and then over the border to Campobello.  The border crossing is easy, but they don’t stamp your passport, which is one of the main reasons I went.  Now I will have to go to Canada at an entrance where they do.  Anyway, the island itself is a small 2 miles wide by 8 miles long so you can cover a lot of ground in a short time.  Just remember, you are in Canada so speed limits and distances are in kilometers and signs are in both English and French.  The entrance to the park is a short distance from the border and there is no entrance fee. 

FDR grew up spending his summers on the island and eventually built his own lavish summer “cottage” where he returned often up through 1939.  It was on the island where he decided to run for political office and where he developed polio.  It was also where he made close friendships with the Canadians that lived on the island.  The park was later established in 1964 as a symbol of the close relationship we continue to share with Canada to this day.  Your visit to the park begins with a short video and then you are free to explore.  There are two “cottages,” the Roosevelt and the Hubbard, which are viewed through a self-guided tour.  These aren’t really cottages, but homes we would like to have as our main home today.  The Roosevelt cottage has 34 rooms and almost everything in it is original.  The views out towards the Bay of Fundy are ridiculously gorgeous and I don’t think I would ever leave if I was a guest!  There are guides at various points in the house to give information and answer any questions you might have.  They are very friendly and knowledgeable.  I also walked down to the beach area, which has a great view back up to the house. 

I stopped to pick up lunch at a little roadside restaurant called Family Fisheries.  I got my lobster roll with fries and slaw and continued north to Head Harbour Lighthouse.  This light is at the very tip of the island and getting there requires more work than I was willing to do.  It is down steps, across slippery rocks, up a steep ladder and then repeat, I think 2 more times. And this is done during low tide.  (Of note, the Bay of Fundy has the world’s most extreme tides.  I think there can be a difference of 28 feet at times!)  I wasn’t up for that so I just ate my lunch and watched for whales.  The lady manning the information stand said she had just seen a Minke whale about 5 minutes earlier.  So of course I did not see anything other than 2 porpoises, and those aren’t as exciting as a whale! 

I also checked out the carriage roads that lead to different nature areas in Campobello Park.  The furthest drive goes out to Liberty Point at the southern end of the island.  Here you can also occasionally spot whales (I did not) and lots of birds and maybe a seal pulling out onto a rock at low tide.  While a jumping humpback whale would have made my year, the craggy rocks and crashing surf were enough to satisfy me.

Time to head back towards Bar Harbor.  The guy on the US side of the border was a little more thorough in his questioning.  Where are you from?  What did you do?  Are you staying locally?  Can I look in the trunk?  I guess I could have been bringing back a seal or something, but I was not!  As I was driving I decided to do the Schoodic Peninsula loop.  This is part of Acadia and is the only portion connected to the mainland.  It is less visited than the main part of the park and I am not sure why.  There aren’t as many trails, but there are some gorgeous views!  You can look across at Cadillac Mountain and you can walk right up to the crashing waves of the Atlantic.  The one-way road through the peninsula ends at Schoodic Point.  Here, the craggy coastline meets the open ocean and the resulting spray is like a geyser in Yellowstone.  You could spend all afternoon sitting on the rocks, but time again was ticking and it was with much reluctance that I headed back towards the car.

So, if you like driving and need to check a Canadian province off your “Where Have I Been” list, I highly recommend the drive to Roosevelt Campobello International Park.  Everyone is friendly, the food is good and the scenery is beautiful.  You just might find yourself thinking about building your own summer “cottage” on a tiny island in New Brunswick!

A Glimpse of Acadia National Park

My first full day on Mount Desert Island and it’s rainy and foggy.  The waitress at breakfast said it would not clear up and there is not much to do when it is raining.  Well, can’t sit inside all day on vacation so I loaded my camera bag up, got in the car and headed for Acadia National Park.  The park was the first national park east of the Mississippi and mostly all the land was donated by private citizens.  L.L. Bean generously provides the Island Explorer buses which run several different routes around the island, helping to lower both congestion and pollution within the park.  The buses are free for anyone to ride, but you do need to purchase a park pass if you are utilizing the park.  The fee for Acadia is $20 for a car and $5 for walk/bike in and is good for 7 days.

The Hulls Cove Visitor Center is a great place to begin your time in Acadia.  You can pay your entrance fee, pick-up maps and view a good introductory video with the background and features of the park.  There also are a lot of staff members who can help you plan your time based on what you like to do.  I decided to drive the Park Loop Road, which goes along the coast of the island.  There weren’t a lot of great views due to the fog, but you could smell the ocean and occasionally see it.  The Park Loop is one way for a good portion and is two lanes so slower vehicles can be passed if you are not of the pokey variety.  I am when I’m traveling along a new scenic route so it was nice to be able to go at my own pace and not hold up others who could care less about taking a picture of the road.  The brief glimpses I did get of the coast and the inland lakes and ponds makes me excited to drive the loop again on a sunny day.  The best spot on today’s drive was the Thunder Hole.  It is a small cave carved out of the coastline where the surf crashes in and makes a very loud thundering sound.  There is a nice walkway from the parking area to the coast and plenty of railings to keep the lunatics from getting too close.

I had lunch at the Jordan Pond House.  Now this is apparently a must just for their popovers and the views.  Today the outdoor seating was closed but the view from inside was nice when the clouds lifted.  I enjoyed a salad, a popover (this comes with your order) and a crab cake.  It was all delicious!  The rain finally stopped and I was able to enjoy some of the trails that wind along Jordan Pond.  This pond is a source of fresh water for the island and you (and your pets) are not allowed to swim in it.  I’m sure the water is too cold anyway!

I did partake of the bus system to get into Bar Harbor for dinner.  My hotel is next door to a campground which is a stop on bus route 1.  This bus drops you off at the Village Green and you are then just steps away from all the shopping and food you could want.  It’s like Door County in the summer!  Even with the rain there were people everywhere due to the giant cruise ship, the Queen Mary 2, at anchor in the harbor.  This makes the bus system seem all the more necessary to avoid the hassle of trying to find a place to park and remembering where said spot is.  All you have to remember is how to get back to the Village Green and what your route number is. 

After today, I would say Acadia is not a bad place to visit on a rainy day.  It shows a different side of itself and it’s a side worth seeing.

Early Fall in Maine

A traveling day

I have thought many times about taking a trip to Acadia National Park.  The descriptions of the craggy coasts, gently sloping mountains and friendly people have long appealed to me.  So this year I am finally here!  Today was a whole day of traveling so not much to report on other than some observations about various points in my day.

1. Boston’s Logan Airport and getting out of it is a challenge that is not for the faint of heart.  Now I was here last year and I don’t recall the airport itself being a problem.  But this time there was construction and traffic backups.  And then trying to stay on the right road to get to the interstate I wanted was like doing a logic puzzle.  I wanted to go north on I-95.  Apparently to get there you needed to attempt to follow Hwy 1 as it weirdly changes numbers and has signs that are either not there or come up at the last minute.  This is also made more challenging by the ridiculous drivers that inhabit the East Coast.  I managed to solve the puzzle and find the interstate with no scratches to the car and only minimal swearing!
2. These new cars with push button starts require a PhD in something in order to get them to turn on.  Hertz should have an instructional card sitting on the front seat explaining how to turn on your vehicle.  Otherwise, the Chevy Cruze I have is way nicer than I was expecting considering the cheap class of car I chose.  It actually has cruise control, power windows and locks and tells you what the temperature is in the car.  Although I do not like leather seats!
3. New Hampshire is a tiny state at the point where I-95 crosses through.  There is a $2 toll, a few exits and then you are in Maine.
4. Maine seems beautiful to drive through, just not when there is rain and lightening.  Makes it harder to look out for the moose that may or may not decide to cross the interstate.  Also, the service plazas along the turnpike are actually pretty nice.  I stopped at one and it was clean, had a Burger King, Popeyes, Starbucks and fresh food choices like salads and fruit. 

I am spending my evenings at the Acadia Pines Motel.  Their website is: http://www.acadiapinesmotel.com/.  The lady at the front desk was very nice and pointed out a lobster place across the street and a BBQ place next door that has breakfast.  I will look forward to seeing the place in the daytime and finding some breakfast at Mainely Meat BBQ!

Leaving Hawaii behind

(11/21/12) My flight out of Kona did not depart until 4:30.  I enjoyed my papaya breakfast while looking out at the giant cruise ship that had arrived during the night.  This meant more people wandering the streets.  It also was a cloudy, warm and humid day.  I spent my remaining time walking along the street.  I stopped and sat on the seawall and saw a turtle riding the waves.  Every once in awhile he would pop his head out of the water to look around.  So cute and nice to come upon this without expecting to.  I ended up heading for the airport around 1:45.  The Kona airport is small, but it was busy!  The entire airport is open air, which made it not seem like an airport at all!  Hawaiian Airlines was right on time, maybe even early.  Arriving in Oahu we were able to see Pearl Harbor as the plane banked to land.  There were lots of dark clouds over the mountains and it was quite a nice view!  I was very sad to leave the islands behind and am sure I will return again!

Royal Kona Resort/Kailua-Kona Wrap-up

I don’t think I’ve ever stayed at a resort before and pictured one as being a place with everything you could want at your fingertips.  The Royal Kona is perched right on the coast at the south end of Ali’i Drive and is within walking distance to any stores or restaurants you could want.  You can walk to the pier to catch the snorkeling tours or bus tours.  The resort has tennis courts, a fitness center, spa, Don’s Mai Tai Bar and Don’s Restaurant.  There is a luau on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday and Friday nights.  They have their own private salt water lagoon and a regular pool.  Parking costs $10 per day and they also charge for internet.  When I checked in, the guy said he upgraded me to an ocean front room since my room wasn’t ready at 2:45 when I asked.  I was supposed to be in an ocean view room and I’m sure that would have been fine.  The room had a beautiful view of the water and was right by the luau spot.  I had a king size bed and a table with two small chairs.  There was a large bare area and I think some sort of chair or chaise lounge would have been nice.  There was no overhead room light, which would have been nice at night and no lights out on the lanai.  I did not sit out there in the middle of the night so I’m not sure how dark it really got.  There are plenty of chairs scattered around the property, from beach chairs along the water to comfy wicker chairs near the bar area.  The landscaping is beautiful and there are lots of little green geckos running around.  I will say the bathroom could be updated.  The tub had barely any edge to it, which isn’t great for those of us who have lots of toiletries.  A soap dish would have been nice.  The carpets throughout the room and hallways looked worn and a paint job wouldn’t go to waste.  But everyone was very friendly and the whole place was very clean.  I would recommend this as it is so conveniently located to all the action. 

  

The Kailua-Kona area is great for different activities.  There is snorkeling, diving, paddle boarding, para sailing, dolphins, turtles, manta rays, whales, shopping, dining, tropical drinks and anything else you would want from a beach vacation.  There are also state and national historic sites within a short distance both north and south of town.   Everything is easily accessible and easy to find.  The island is small enough that you could probably go all the way around in a day.  But you won’t because you will be stopping to explore all the sites.  I don’t like to spend a whole vacation sitting on the beach or shopping or drinking and I was able to find enough stuff to fill my days and have time to lounge when I wanted to.  This side of the island is warm and humid and has little rain.  My last day it was cloudy and dripping but no one seemed to mind!  If you get tired of the heat, drive an hour north to Waimea where the cooler winds blow.  Or, soak it up while you can because you are most likely heading back to somewhere that is not as nice as where you are!

Last full day in Kona

(11/20/12) Today was a me day.  Started with my favorite Papaya Nest breakfast.  Half a papaya, vanilla yogurt and granola.  A great way to start the day!  Then I did some shopping along Ali’i Dr.  I ate lunch at Humpy’s (it’s a humpback whale) and had a delicious fresh fish sandwich.  The fish of the day was Big Island Ahi.  Apparently that is a tuna, which I do not like, but this was delicious.  Maybe it was the setting or just a different tasting tuna.  I spent the afternoon by the hotel’s saltwater lagoon.  There were some crabs scuttling around and brightly colored angel fish swimming.  I should have rented some snorkeling gear, but I did not.  It was just relaxing to read in the quiet sand area.  I also did some laundry.  I know, I’m on vacation, but it was hot and my clothes stinky and I needed something to do.  While that was happening I was able to spend some more time reading by the water.  I went back to the Sheraton to watch for rays one more time.  Tonight there were 3!  The big one and two other ones.  They were really circling around close to shore so it was easier to see them than last night.  It also was dripping and it felt nice.  I decided to walk back to the shops to find some dessert.  Luckily, I wandered into one of those frozen yogurt places where you fill up your dish and pay by how much it weighs.  I was excited to find one of the options was Dole Whip!!!  My mom and I had this when we were at the Dole Pineapple Plantation and it was so delicious.  So I filled up my bowl (and added some chocolate yogurt) and added some interesting toppings like pineapple jelly (seemed like gummy bear texture to me), flavored tapioca pearls and other things I wasn’t sure of but they were all fruit flavored.  I was pleased to find the Dole Whip tasted just as I remembered with a wonderful pineapple flavor.  It was a great find and I’m glad I found it the last night instead of the first or I would have filled up on frozen yogurt!

North Coast Sites

(11/19/12)  Today I headed north along the Kohala Coast.  First stop of the day was Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park.  This park preserves the coastal sections of two ahupua’a or traditional land divisions.  Families fished and farmed here.  There are very few facilities in this park, but lots of hiking trails.  If you were to hike, you would need to bring plenty of water and something to provide some shade.  I went in the entrance that is off the parking lot for the Honokohau boat harbor.  Once inside the park gate there is a map and box with park brochures.  There is a short walk to the coastline which comes out by a heiau or religious temple.  The water here is so clear and perfect for strolling along the shore.  There were some replicas of huts and a guy doing yoga.  Otherwise there was no one there.  The main park visitor center is a little further up Hwy 19.  There you can access more trails and get more information.  Too warm for me to do more hiking.  The same was true at most of the stops for the day.  I continued along Hwy 19 through old lava fields and coastal resort areas.  I stopped at the Mauna Lani Resort where there was a short walk to see some petroglyphs.  There is a parking lot at the shore access and a path off of that lot.  I walked the paved path to where the petroglyphs were supposed to be.  I’m not sure how old these were supposed to be but they looked fake.  There were a bunch of rocks in a circle with carvings.  So maybe there was more to the path then I could see but it looked like that’s where it ended.  I walked back to the parking lot and down to the shore.  There I saw a turtle eating along the rocks!

Next stop was Hapuna Beach.  This beach is very large with lots of nice sand.  It is a steep walk down to the beach but if you were going to spend some time then it would not be a big deal.  I just walked down and back to the car.  Very warm!

My next stop was Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historical Park.  This is off Hwy 270 just after you turn on from Hwy 19.  The park is home to a large stone heiau that is one of the last major sacred structures built before outside influences came.  It was built in 1790 by King Kamehameha I.  This is another park with very limited shade and warm temperatures.  You can see one of the heiaus from the highway and from the visitor center.  I again did not do any of the walks due to the heat.  The waters around the park are a marine sanctuary and home to black-tipped reef sharks and humpback whales, neither of which was home when I was there. 

I drove along Hwy 19 to Waimea where I stopped for lunch.  It was a cooler 73 and the perfect place for a stop.  I ate at the Waimea Coffee Café where I had a delicious salad of apples, dried cranberries, blue cheese, walnuts and some delicious vinaigrette turned into a wrap.  The wrap was actually cheaper than the salad.  It was very good.  Next door was the general store where I got some jam.  I asked the lady about driving up Hwy 250 and if it was really windy and steep.  She said yes, but it was worth the drive and the speed limit was slow.  So I decided to do it and I was glad I did.

The road heads north out of Waimea and through pastures and ranches.  On a clear day you should be able to see Maui, but it was too hazy.  The road does climb and there are some sharp curves, but traffic was light and I was able to pull over when a car came behind me.  The views were so nice, but I wish it had been less hazy so the mountains were clearer.  The road ends in Hawi where you can get back on the 270 and go to its end at the Pololu Valley Overlook.  This is one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen!  Looking up the mountain is a lush green valley and looking towards the coast is bright blue waters, white cresting waves and towering sea cliffs.  There is a very steep walk down to the shore.  I walked down about halfway and then turned around.  I didn’t have any water and my legs were already shaky.  I’m sure the end of the path would have been wonderful but the views I saw were enough for that day.  This is one spot I highly recommend on a visit to the Big Island. 

I followed Hwy 270 back along the coast and stopped at Lapakahi State Historical Park.  This is another historical village and again with limited shade and warm temps.  But I’m sure the hikes would have been nice!

I was thinking of doing the luau at my hotel so I headed back to shower before going down.  But I then decided to skip the long line and eat at the bar instead.  I’m glad I did as I was able to sit looking out at the water and see some Spinner Dolphins jumping around.  Had a delicious pork quesadilla and watched the sort of sunset through the clouds.  When I went back to my room the luau hadn’t started yet so I’m glad I skipped it or I would have been starving.  I grabbed my car keys and headed to the Sheraton to watch for manta rays.  They have a viewing platform outside Rays on the Bay.  A lady gives an educational talk about the rays starting at 7.  The snorkeling boat tours leave the area around 7:30 and then the rays come in closer to shore and the hotel shines lights out into the water.  We all waited for one to appear and a collective “Look!” was heard when the first black shape glided into view.  It was so amazing to watch!  There were 2 feeding while I was there.  One was really big and did some somersaults so you could see it’s white belly.  I was hoping for it to jump out of the water, but it did not.  The lady said you rarely see that at night while they are feeding, but earlier this summer she made that comment and about 2 minutes later one jumped right out!  That would have been amazing.  I think I’ll go back to watch one last time.  I should do the snorkeling but those boats were bobbing around and I would be afraid of getting sick before getting in the water.  She said it is a very amazing experience and one that you should not miss.  So for anyone else that likes to snorkel and doesn’t mind bobbing boats then I would recommend it.  I finally made myself leave even though I did not want to!

Touring the south Kona coast

This morning I started out with a breakfast of half a papaya filled with yogurt and granola at this place just up the road that I think is called Java on the Rocks.  I'll have to check tomorrow as I'm sure I will end up at the same place.  It's a restaurant normally, but in the morning there is a little stand inside and you can get bagels, omelets, fruit plates and my papaya nest.  It was really delicious! 

Today's driving tour took me south on Hwy 11 to some historical sites.  There was some sort of mini Ironman thing going on so roads were closed and traffic had to stop to wait for the bikers to go through.  I don't know how those people did it as they had to bike up this giant hill and then go who knows where.  Once there was a big enough gap, I finally got to continue on my way.  First stop was at Greenwell Farms.  This is one of many coffee farms.  They have a tour you can take, but I did not and the lady didn't offer.  I don't like coffee, but I got some for relatives that do!  I'm sure I'll be stopping at other coffee farms on my north drive so I will do a tour then.

The next stop was Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park.  This is found by taking yet another narrow winding road down the hill.  I really don't like these kinds of drives and yet I have been doing lots of them this trip.  The park is where you can access the Captain Cook Monument, but the only way to get there is by water.  So I did not go.  There was a gathering of locals at the entrance to the parking lot who were trying to get you to rent their snorkeling gear and one followed me when I got out of the car to look at the information signs.  I was glad to leave. 

Next was Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park.  This place was really nice.  The entrance fee is $5 and is good for 7 days.  There is a self-guided walking tour of the grounds, which are beautifully kept.  I have the brochure in the car so I can't remember everything, but it is a sacred spot and was a place of refuge for early Hawaiians.  If you did something bad or were at war or anything, you could go to this site and no one could hurt you while there.  There are reconstructions of temples and remains of the original buildings.  It is a really well done park.  There is also a 2 mile loop trail that goes to some other historical sites, the remains of a village and past some lava tubes.  I did part of the trail.  I decided to cut off at the path that went towards the coast rather than continue to the village because I was too hot.  But I'm sure the remaining sites would have been nice!

I stopped at the South Kona farm market on my way back north.  A lady was selling some jellies and fruit butter so I bought a small jar of jelly.  They are all made from these tropical fruits that we don't get back home, or don't eat as often as things like bananas.  I had some delicious fish 'n chips for lunch at some roadside cafe.  It claims to have the best around and it certainly was good.

Stopped back at the hotel to grab my towel and a book and then went to La'aloa Beach.  This is a sandy beach a little ways down Ali'i Drive from my hotel.  The kids were all in the water with their body boards and it was fun to watch them.  Even the little tiny ones, who looked like they should have a parent standing right next to them, were getting pushed around by the waves.  I guess these kids grow up in the water!

Trading the cool rainforest for the warm, sunny coast!

Today I left Volcano for Kailua-Kona on the west coast.  The shortest route is to follow Hwy 11 west out of Volcano, passing the southernmost point in the US and then going north along the coast.  The other route is to take Hwy 19 north out of Hilo and follow it around the north side of the island.  I chose to take the north route as it sounded more scenic and I wanted to hit the farm markets in Waimea.  Hwy 19 did not disappoint!  There were some stretches along the east coastline that were a bit scary (a road my dad would love to drive) but I paid attention to the changing scenery rather than the scary twists, turns and climbs.  I took the turn off for Akaka Falls State Park, which heads up into the hills on another windy scenic road.  The park is at the end of the road and there is a $5 fee which is paid at an automated machine using your credit card and entering your license plate number.  I did not want to do that and did not know my number so I just took a picture from the overlook and headed out.  It would probably be a lovely walk, but I also did not want to miss the farm market.  Waimea is probably halfway between Hilo and Kona and you are awarded the first views of Mauna Kea as you get closer to the town.  The mountain is impressive, rising off the floor, with smaller cones at the base.  You can make out the various observatories at the top.  I did not see any snow, but that could be on the other side or there wasn’t any.  Waimea is a cowboy town.  There are large ranches and lots of cows and horses.  The area receives some rain and is quite green.  I was able to stop at two farm markets that both were going on at the same time.  One is on the east side of Waimea and the other was on the west side.  At the west side one I got a delicious pesto quesadilla and bought some coconut candies from one of the stands.  They had coconut with all different flavors and samples of all.  There were also stands with honey, jams, produce, crafts and, of course, Kona coffee.  Two very nice little markets!  I decided to take Hwy 190 out of Waimea instead of following Hwy 19.  The 19 would have followed the coast and gone through all the little towns.  I plan to go back that way another day on one of my driving routes so I took the faster 190.  This goes inland and is through some very dry, desolate land.  Mauna Kea looms over it and must block the rain.  Lots of scrubby grasses, some cacti and scraggly trees are mostly what you see.  Further on were the remnants of a lava flow and that made the landscape even more dramatic.  My mom does not like dry scrubby stuff, but I loved it.  It is just amazing the variety of areas you find on one island.  You wouldn’t think of Hawaii as having a desert or being chilly but it does and is.  I really recommend the inner route if you plan to go along the coast later in your trip.  Once you arrive over on the Kona side the landscape again changes to the more green.  It is different from the rainforest of Volcano.  Kona is drier and sunnier, what Hawaii is normally associated with.  Kailua-Kona is a big resort town.  The touristy road is lined with eateries, shops, ABC stores, tour operators and any other service you might want.  I stopped at my hotel to check-in even though it was only 12:30.  I am staying at the Royal Kona and it seems nice.  The lobby is all open air and the crashing surf is a constant in the background.  My room wasn’t ready so I parked the car and wandered back up the street.  I stopped for a snack of some shave ice.  This is the greatest snack ever.  Just some shaved ice with whatever flavored syrup you would like.  Apparently the way to eat it is also with some condensed milk on top.  I chose coconut and sat under the awning to enjoy my snack while watching the waves.  I checked out little shops and then turned around to just sit at the hotel until my room was ready.  I wandered back to the desk at 2:45 and the guy told me it was still being cleaned.  I said no problem, I can sit and enjoy the breeze.  When I went back after 3 he said they had upgraded me from an ocean view room to an ocean front room because of the wait!  Well wasn’t that nice!  Check in time is really 3 so I wasn’t waiting, but I won’t complain.  The view is great.  I can sit out on the lanai, type my blog and just listen to the waves!  The room itself is ok.  The bathroom is small and there is hardly any tub ledge.  I was barely able to get the little bar of soap to fit.  It could use some updating.  But the room is clean and the bed looks comfy so that is all that matters.  Ended the day by grabbing a salad at Bubba Gump Shrimp.  Then was treated to the sounds of the luau outside my room.  This one was being put on for a group of Japanese tourists and they really enjoyed it.  Fell asleep listening to the sounds of the crashing waves.

Chalet Kilauea/Volcano National Park Wrap-Up

I spent two full days in the shadow of Pele.  I have to say I loved Volcanoes National Park.  There is so much to see and so many hikes to take.  You definitely need one full day, but two would be great if you want to add on some of the longer hikes along the crater floor and spend more time just looking at things.  Expect rain since the park is in a rainforest and don’t let it ruin your time there.  My room at Chalet Kilauea was wonderful.  The Africa Room is the least expensive, and smallest, room at the Chalet.  It states that right on their website.  The room was perfect for me as a single traveler.  There was a double bed, flat screen TV, closet with storage space, large bathroom and private lanai with mini kitchen.  I don’t know if I would recommend this room for more than one person.  Obviously you could make it work for a couple, but there would not be much room for privacy other than escaping to the lanai or O’hana room.  The walls are a little thin and I was woken up one night by some noisy people checking in.  The room did not have air conditioning, but I discovered this was not a problem as it’s very cool in the rainforest at night and the window in the door to the lanai opens and provides enough air.  Breakfast can be had for $6.25 downstairs.  The menu in the room guide boasts a wide variety of cereal, fresh fruit, assorted pastries and sweet bread.  The variety of cereal was Raisin Bran and Corn Flakes so not a large selection.  But there were 2 kinds of bagels, English muffins, bread, 3 kinds of sweet bread, pineapple, orange slices and papaya.  Coffee, hot water for tea and a tropical fruit juice blend are also provided.  When I checked out I reminded the lady that I had breakfast all 3 mornings.  She said “Breakfast?  You hardly ate anything so I will only charge you for one.”  I guess my taking a small plate and going back for seconds wasn’t enough for her!  So that was a treat.  The town of Volcano is small and does not offer many food options.  There is a Thai restaurant, local family dinner, a café and some lodge.  It looked like most places closed early and the next closest food is back in Hilo so don’t go expecting anything gourmet or late. 

I found Hilo to be a bit grungy looking along the waterfront and did not really stop to do any eating or sightseeing.  Maybe there are better options by the resort areas.  It is also a 30 minute minimum trip to the national park so Volcano is your best option if you want to concentrate on that area.  It’s easy to get around as there are only a few main highways and all have something different to see.  Keep your camera out and be ready to snap as you drive!

Sites on the Hilo side

So today was a mishmash of various things which took me north, south and west of Hilo.  First stop was the Homelani Memorial Park to track down the headstone of some distant relative on my dad's side.  The ladies in the office were very helpful and one walked me over to the section and helped me find him.  Apparently he was located in the prominent people section so he must have had something to do with the settling of Hilo or something like that.  So, dead people taken care of, it was time to do some sightseeing.  First stop was Rainbow Falls State Park.  The park is located a little farther inland from the cemetery and has no entrance fee.  All the park consists of is an overlook platform for the falls.  But it is worth the visit to view the cascade of water.  The sun wasn't out so no rainbow:( 

I headed north out of Hilo on Hwy 19.  A little ways up you can take the 4 mile scenic route, which used to be the old highway.  It is a narrow winding road through a maze of tropical plants.  I was glad the car in front of me was driving slowly like I was and there were no cars behind so I had time to look at all the different trees, ferns and plants.  Along the route is the Hawai'i Tropical Botanical Garden.  I planned to stop, but it was $15, had a steep descent and would take 1-1/2 to walk through.  It turned out to be a good thing I didn't go since it started pouring as soon as I pulled out of the parking lot.  It rained the rest of the way which made the drive even more beautiful.

I headed back towards Hilo to follow a driving route I found on a website.  The route followed Hwy 130 to Pahoa, which is some little town south of Hilo.  From Pahoa I followed Hwy 132 to Lava Tree State Park.  There is no entrance fee and the park is very accessible and has a real bathroom.  There is a paved walking path that takes you in a short loop through the forest to view the lava trees.  They are suppose to be the main attraction, but I was more interested in the many different kinds of plants.  It's amazing how many different kinds of ferns there are!  And the colors!  There is a big sign telling you to stay on the path dues to large cracks in the ground throughout the park.  So it seemed right that the girl in front of me slipped in the mud and bloodied her knee when she went off the path to stand next to one of the trees.  If it says to stay on the path, then stay on the path!  The park was not crowded and you could really spend a lot of time examining all the plants, but the rain started up again so I headed on my way.

Next stop on the route were the tidal pools at Kapoho.  These pools are way off the highway at the edge of a residential area.  They allow you to park and visit the pools but ask for a $3 parking donation for upkeep.  Well the parking lot was horrible so I guess most visitors don't make the donation.  There were lots of tidal pools, but the lava rocks make it hard to walk without paying a lot of attention to the ground.  I only saw a few crabs and did not spend much time.

I followed Hwy 137 to it's end.  Well, it used to go farther, but then the lava flow came and wiped out the road and the town.  There are a few little stores and craft stands at the current end.  This area used to be a world famous black sand beach, and it will be again someday, but for now it's just rolling lava.  Hwy 137 gets very narrow, windy and hilly before you get to the end and it seems like it takes forever.  I wouldn't recommend it.  Hwy 130 is the one that everyone takes to the end and then hikes out to view the current lava flow.  I probably should have done that instead. 

So then I decided to head back to Hwy 11 and go check out the black sand beach, which is 30 miles south of my hotel.  The road goes through the Ka'u Desert and has great views of Mauna Loa and lava and the coast.  Punalu'u Beach Park is just south of the town of Pahala.  There is plenty of free parking, picnic tables and restrooms.  Swimming doesn't seem to be recommended and with the giant waves, I wouldn't try anything other than walking along the shore.  There are two main attractions at this beach - the black sand and the sea turtles.  The sand is beautiful and feels different than regular beach sand.  At least I thought it did.  Luckily for me, there was a nice sea turtle resting on the sand.  Again, the area was swarming with those Japanese tourists and they were all standing right next to the turtle, pretending to touch it and taking pictures.  They finally left and I was able to get my picture, from the recommended distance of 25 feet.  There were also other turtles bobbing around in the surf and I was just waiting for one to crawl up on the sand, but I wasn't that lucky.  Then I noticed some people around one of the little pools and wandered over see what they were looking at.  And there was another turtle and he was having a little snack of whatever was growing on the rocks.  It was so neat to watch him just being a turtle.  Hopefully these turtles won't be my last marine life encounter of the trip.

I stopped back at the park to see if there was anything new going on with the lava lake, but it's status was unchanged from the day before.  It was cold and rainy so I decided I wasn't going to drive in to view the volcano once more.  It's strange to talk about being cold in Hawaii, but this part of the island is cooler and much wetter than the rest of the island.  Tomorrow I check out of Volcano and head over to Kona.  I doubt I will be cold again until I land at O'Hare! 

A day with Pele

Today was a day of lots of firsts for me: first time standing on lava, first time walking through a lava tube and the first time seeing a road covered in lava.  The destruction and birth of land are both on display at Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.  The park is located about 30 minutes from Hilo and just outside the tiny town of Volcano.  There is an entrance fee of $10 and your pass is good for 7 days.  You will get your moneys worth even if you only spend one day.  The whole day was a mix of mist and sun, with more mist than sun, and plenty of wind.  The weather did nothing to stop my visit or the visit of lots of other people, most of whom seemed to be Japanese.  In fact a nice Japanese man took my picture at the park sign after I offered to take one of him and his wife.  Anyway, the best place to start is the visitor center, which is open every day from 7:45 to 5:00 (the park itself is open 24 hours a day), where you can find lots of information on the current volcanic activity, maps of the park and suggestions for what to do depending on how long you are planning to stay.  I had all day at the park so I followed the suggestions for the 1-3 hours and the add ons for 4-5 hours.  The first ranger talk wasn't until 9:30 so I headed out to see the steam vents and view the Kilauea Caldera.  The views were a bit shrouded in mist, but I was just in awe of the beauty of Kilauea.  The Caldera is a harsh grey landscape, which may not sound beautiful but it is.  Kilauea is the youngest area of Hawai'i so it does not have the rising mountain top of Mauna Loa or Mauna Kea, but it is active and always changing.  I went back for the ranger talk, which was a good 20-30 minutes about the history of the Hawaiian Islands, the history of the Big Island and what is going on currently.  Lucky for us, there has been a lot of activity lately in the Halema'uma'u Crater.  The crater suddenly had a giant hole and now a lava lake is slowly rising towards the surface.  The level changes slightly each day and is currently about 100 feet below the surface.  At night, you can see the glow of the lava reflected in the steam.  During the day it is an impressive site with a huge cloud of steam billowing out of one side and smaller trickles from other sides. The crater is easily viewed from the Jagger Museum.  The road around Kilauea is closed due to this new activity.

After lunch I took the Chain of Craters road.  This road is about 30 miles round trip and dead ends into a lava flow.  I spent a good 3 hours making the trip as there are lots of places to stop and view craters, lava flows from different years, a lava tube, the Devastation Trail and the current coast line.  The mist was out in full force until you drive out of the rainforest.  Then it was really windy (I had trouble getting the car door to open at a few of the stops) and then warm and sunny down by the ocean.  The views of the lava flows were just amazing.  There are jagged edges and smooth rounded edges, giant boulders and tiny rocks, dead trees uprooted when the lava came flowing through and new green growth.  I finally had to stop stopping at all the pull outs because I wanted to get to the bottom.  The road ends where the lava flowed right over it.  There is parking and those always nice natural toilets where the wind rushes up at you when you sit down.  I hate those!  You can walk out to the edge of the coastal cliffs and view the water meeting the land.  The waves are huge and it's very easy to get sprayed, or soaked, by the surging water.  You cannot see lava actually flowing unless you take a 15 mile hike over the hardened lava field and that's way more work than I wanted to do.  You can also hike into the Kilauea Iki Crater, which is an easier 2ish mile hike that I also did not attempt on my own.

 

I headed back into the park after dinner to view the glow of the lava lake.  There was a steady stream of traffic heading down from the Jagger Museum so I took that as a good sign.  The parking lot at the museum was packed and very dark so I carefully found a spot without running anyone over.  It was so cold and windy!  I quickly walked to the lookout point and was rewarded with the sight of a bright orange glow in the crater.  So amazing!  I would have liked to stay and watch the shifting of the plume and the change in orange tones, but I was just too cold.  Took my few pictures that are pretty terrible and called it a night.  I'm sure spewing lava would be way more exciting to watch, but this was better than nothing. 

And so my day with Pele comes to an end.  I am ready for bed and hope to be all caught up on my sleep by tomorrow!