North Coast Sites

(11/19/12)  Today I headed north along the Kohala Coast.  First stop of the day was Kaloko-Honokohau National Historical Park.  This park preserves the coastal sections of two ahupua’a or traditional land divisions.  Families fished and farmed here.  There are very few facilities in this park, but lots of hiking trails.  If you were to hike, you would need to bring plenty of water and something to provide some shade.  I went in the entrance that is off the parking lot for the Honokohau boat harbor.  Once inside the park gate there is a map and box with park brochures.  There is a short walk to the coastline which comes out by a heiau or religious temple.  The water here is so clear and perfect for strolling along the shore.  There were some replicas of huts and a guy doing yoga.  Otherwise there was no one there.  The main park visitor center is a little further up Hwy 19.  There you can access more trails and get more information.  Too warm for me to do more hiking.  The same was true at most of the stops for the day.  I continued along Hwy 19 through old lava fields and coastal resort areas.  I stopped at the Mauna Lani Resort where there was a short walk to see some petroglyphs.  There is a parking lot at the shore access and a path off of that lot.  I walked the paved path to where the petroglyphs were supposed to be.  I’m not sure how old these were supposed to be but they looked fake.  There were a bunch of rocks in a circle with carvings.  So maybe there was more to the path then I could see but it looked like that’s where it ended.  I walked back to the parking lot and down to the shore.  There I saw a turtle eating along the rocks!

Next stop was Hapuna Beach.  This beach is very large with lots of nice sand.  It is a steep walk down to the beach but if you were going to spend some time then it would not be a big deal.  I just walked down and back to the car.  Very warm!

My next stop was Pu’ukohola Heiau National Historical Park.  This is off Hwy 270 just after you turn on from Hwy 19.  The park is home to a large stone heiau that is one of the last major sacred structures built before outside influences came.  It was built in 1790 by King Kamehameha I.  This is another park with very limited shade and warm temperatures.  You can see one of the heiaus from the highway and from the visitor center.  I again did not do any of the walks due to the heat.  The waters around the park are a marine sanctuary and home to black-tipped reef sharks and humpback whales, neither of which was home when I was there. 

I drove along Hwy 19 to Waimea where I stopped for lunch.  It was a cooler 73 and the perfect place for a stop.  I ate at the Waimea Coffee Café where I had a delicious salad of apples, dried cranberries, blue cheese, walnuts and some delicious vinaigrette turned into a wrap.  The wrap was actually cheaper than the salad.  It was very good.  Next door was the general store where I got some jam.  I asked the lady about driving up Hwy 250 and if it was really windy and steep.  She said yes, but it was worth the drive and the speed limit was slow.  So I decided to do it and I was glad I did.

The road heads north out of Waimea and through pastures and ranches.  On a clear day you should be able to see Maui, but it was too hazy.  The road does climb and there are some sharp curves, but traffic was light and I was able to pull over when a car came behind me.  The views were so nice, but I wish it had been less hazy so the mountains were clearer.  The road ends in Hawi where you can get back on the 270 and go to its end at the Pololu Valley Overlook.  This is one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen!  Looking up the mountain is a lush green valley and looking towards the coast is bright blue waters, white cresting waves and towering sea cliffs.  There is a very steep walk down to the shore.  I walked down about halfway and then turned around.  I didn’t have any water and my legs were already shaky.  I’m sure the end of the path would have been wonderful but the views I saw were enough for that day.  This is one spot I highly recommend on a visit to the Big Island. 

I followed Hwy 270 back along the coast and stopped at Lapakahi State Historical Park.  This is another historical village and again with limited shade and warm temps.  But I’m sure the hikes would have been nice!

I was thinking of doing the luau at my hotel so I headed back to shower before going down.  But I then decided to skip the long line and eat at the bar instead.  I’m glad I did as I was able to sit looking out at the water and see some Spinner Dolphins jumping around.  Had a delicious pork quesadilla and watched the sort of sunset through the clouds.  When I went back to my room the luau hadn’t started yet so I’m glad I skipped it or I would have been starving.  I grabbed my car keys and headed to the Sheraton to watch for manta rays.  They have a viewing platform outside Rays on the Bay.  A lady gives an educational talk about the rays starting at 7.  The snorkeling boat tours leave the area around 7:30 and then the rays come in closer to shore and the hotel shines lights out into the water.  We all waited for one to appear and a collective “Look!” was heard when the first black shape glided into view.  It was so amazing to watch!  There were 2 feeding while I was there.  One was really big and did some somersaults so you could see it’s white belly.  I was hoping for it to jump out of the water, but it did not.  The lady said you rarely see that at night while they are feeding, but earlier this summer she made that comment and about 2 minutes later one jumped right out!  That would have been amazing.  I think I’ll go back to watch one last time.  I should do the snorkeling but those boats were bobbing around and I would be afraid of getting sick before getting in the water.  She said it is a very amazing experience and one that you should not miss.  So for anyone else that likes to snorkel and doesn’t mind bobbing boats then I would recommend it.  I finally made myself leave even though I did not want to!