If you are in Maine, only 2
hours from the Canadian border, have a day to fill and want to see some
beautiful scenery then I suggest visiting Roosevelt
Campobello International
Park in New Brunswick as I did today.
The weather forecast was for a cloudy day, which I thought
would be perfect for a drive. Getting to
Campobello from Bar Harbor is easy. Head back up the 3 to Ellsworth, North on Hwy
1 to Hwy 189, East on Hwy 189 to Lubec and then over the border to
Campobello. The border crossing is easy,
but they don’t stamp your passport, which is one of the main reasons I
went. Now I will have to go to Canada at an
entrance where they do. Anyway, the
island itself is a small 2 miles wide by 8 miles long so you can cover a lot of
ground in a short time. Just remember,
you are in Canada
so speed limits and distances are in kilometers and signs are in both English
and French. The entrance to the park is
a short distance from the border and there is no entrance fee.
FDR grew up spending his summers on the island and
eventually built his own lavish summer “cottage” where he returned often up
through 1939. It was on the island where
he decided to run for political office and where he developed polio. It was also where he made close friendships
with the Canadians that lived on the island.
The park was later established in 1964 as a symbol of the close
relationship we continue to share with Canada to this day. Your visit to the park begins with a short
video and then you are free to explore.
There are two “cottages,” the Roosevelt and the Hubbard, which are
viewed through a self-guided tour. These
aren’t really cottages, but homes we would like to have as our main home
today. The Roosevelt
cottage has 34 rooms and almost everything in it is original. The views out towards the Bay
of Fundy are ridiculously gorgeous and I don’t think I would ever
leave if I was a guest! There are guides
at various points in the house to give information and answer any questions you
might have. They are very friendly and
knowledgeable. I also walked down to the
beach area, which has a great view back up to the house.
I stopped to pick up lunch at a little roadside restaurant
called Family Fisheries. I got my
lobster roll with fries and slaw and continued north to Head Harbour
Lighthouse. This light is at the very
tip of the island and getting there requires more work than I was willing to
do. It is down steps, across slippery
rocks, up a steep ladder and then repeat, I think 2 more times. And this is
done during low tide. (Of note, the Bay of Fundy has the world’s most extreme tides. I think there can be a difference of 28 feet
at times!) I wasn’t up for that so I
just ate my lunch and watched for whales.
The lady manning the information stand said she had just seen a Minke
whale about 5 minutes earlier. So of
course I did not see anything other than 2 porpoises, and those aren’t as
exciting as a whale!
I also checked out the carriage roads that lead to different
nature areas in Campobello
Park. The furthest drive goes out to Liberty Point
at the southern end of the island. Here
you can also occasionally spot whales (I did not) and lots of birds and maybe a
seal pulling out onto a rock at low tide.
While a jumping humpback whale would have made my year, the craggy rocks
and crashing surf were enough to satisfy me.
Time to head back towards Bar Harbor. The guy on the US side of the border was a little
more thorough in his questioning. Where
are you from? What did you do? Are you staying locally? Can I look in the trunk? I guess I could have been bringing back a
seal or something, but I was not! As I
was driving I decided to do the Schoodic
Peninsula loop. This is part of Acadia
and is the only portion connected to the mainland. It is less visited than the main part of the
park and I am not sure why. There aren’t
as many trails, but there are some gorgeous views! You can look across at Cadillac
Mountain and you can walk right up to
the crashing waves of the Atlantic. The one-way road through the peninsula ends
at Schoodic Point. Here, the craggy
coastline meets the open ocean and the resulting spray is like a geyser in Yellowstone. You
could spend all afternoon sitting on the rocks, but time again was ticking and
it was with much reluctance that I headed back towards the car.
So, if you like driving and need to check a Canadian
province off your “Where Have I Been” list, I highly recommend the drive to Roosevelt Campobello International
Park. Everyone is friendly, the food is good and
the scenery is beautiful. You just might
find yourself thinking about building your own summer “cottage” on a tiny
island in New Brunswick!
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